Lose the nude beige eyeshadow. Color washes of vibrant, hot corals, fruity emeralds and fuchsias were all over Europe—
With spring in the air, and chiffon in abundance amid layers of floaty, flirty, transparent fabrics, the dramatically lined eyes of rock-chic seen on last season’s runways are over. The predominant eye story now involves a sharp jolt of color: Washes of candy-colored shadows were everywhere, with John Galliano’s multicolored swatches of eye shadow summing up the mood of the season (although let’s not go quite this far).
“It’s all about a homage to the modern secretary, the working woman who defiantly loves color,” says Pat McGrath, responsible for the major eye shadow at Louis Vuitton, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani. “Someone who’s not afraid of the greens, the lavenders, and the corals”. A Working Girl kind of working woman, we suspect.
McGrath’s make-up at Emporio Armani featured shocks of lavender, turquoise, fuchsia and silver. At Louis Vuitton, bold color appeared again, with a dazzling array of green and pale blue eyeshadow.
“We thought about every spring color we could imagine: lavenders, blues, greens, pinks,” says McGrath. “We went round the department stores in Paris—Printemps, Galeries Lafayette—and picked up great color brands like Bourjois, Gemey, and L’Oreal.”
Bright colors maybe, but subtle application. “Initially, these colors mostly look quite garish and tasteless,” says McGrath, “but the application is a really sheer, very sophisticated, tasteful wash of color.”
So think fruit; think hot pastels; think about the first time you dipped your fingers into a paint palette of color as a child; and make barely-there-beige a distant memory. Draw inspiration from the lavender and pink at Fendi, pale shades of aqua and emerald at Giorgio Armani, coral at Anna Molinari and Alberta Ferretti, pastel green at Byblos, pink at Marni and yellow and gold at Martine Sitbon.
With color this spring so…well,..so colorful, the spring lip—a hint of pale, glossy pink—is much more subtle. “Stain the lips with a pale-pink or coral color, then apply lashings and lashings of gloss,” says McGrath.
The overall ensemble?—think La Dolce Vita, Belle du Jour, and the heady days of disco.