From Gucci’s sparkling jersey dresses, bright-pink hosiery, and stone-encrusted sandals to Anna Molinari’s fuschia sequined pant and Ungaro’s beaded crystal silk top, the new maximalist dressing is at its over-the-top best for evening. The makeup to match is all about a dewy face, a smoky eye, and a glossy lip.
“Evening makeup is very indulgent right now, and really complements the new upscale dressing. It’s an extremely glamorous look,” says Curtis Phelps, national director of makeup for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics
For clients like Kate Moss, Angelina Jolie and Brandy, New York makeup artist Charlie Green is focusing more on the eyes than the lips for evening. “Eating and drinking makes lips too high maintenance,” she says. “I’m doing a smoky, sexy eye—mixing shiny, sparkling products in with dark colors. My favorite look right now is an espresso-colored eyeshadow with a bronze gold all around the eyes, top and bottom, liner, and tons and tons of mascara.” Too Faced Glitter Eyeshadow in Dirt Bag is a dark, sultry shimmering brown; Paint from M.A.C in Artjam—a deep, brownish plum—is an adorable tube of creamy shimmer eyeshadow that just begs to be squeezed. “Skip powder for really sexy skin,” advises Green. “And keep the cheeks dewy. That’s all you need.”
Susan Sarandon, Lisa Rinna and Deborah Norville depend on New York-based makeup artist Laura Geller to leave their skin looking soft and luminescent for evening . “Shimmer should be used as a highlight, to reflect light and makes lines appear softer,” says Geller. “Use it anywhere where it might catch the light—on the high point of cheekbones, under brow to highlight, and as a sparkle gloss or shimmer on the lips.”
Makeup artist/entrepreneur /photographer Francois Nars agrees. “Shimmer should really be worn lightly, almost as a transparent base, so you just see a bit of sparkle when the light catches. It should be alluring, not literal. You don’t want people to see tons of it, they should wonder and look again. And darker skin tones may need a warm, gold or bronze shimmer, rather than a silver one.”
Nars’ Face Glow gives a slighly bronze, glowing shimmer. Bloom’s Shimmer Highlighter glides on like a cream, but feels like a powder; and Shu Uemura’s Luminizer is a luxuriously creamy stick that gives a super sheer, long-lasting pearly finish.
Whip out the ultimate in evening chic: Calvin Klein’s sleek, minimalist pressed powder compact.
Draw a strong, thin, dark line at the base of the lashes for a doe-eyed look. “I like cake eyeliner with a skinny brush—it lasts much longer,” says Geller.
Shu Uemura’s Matte Black eyeshadow in M970 or Tony & Tina’s wet/dry eye shadow in Macro/Micro can be stroked on with a thin eyeliner brush, like Facewear’s Eye Liner Brush. If you prefer a liquid—Guerlain’s glides on with a thin brush for a perfect line.
• Use a single color to add brightness to the eyelids, says Geller. “I like a salmon-colored eye shadow, a mixture of coral and champagne all over lids.” Add a sheer highlight in the same color at the brow, making sure to blend well.
• Fill in brows with a taupe pencil, squaring off the front edge to give them an old-fashioned look. Valerie of Beverly Hills Brow Queen Pencil is waterproof, smearproof, and has a twirl brush at one end to comb brows into perfect shape.
• False eyelashes are pure sex appeal. “Glue a few short clusters onto the outer ridge of the eye. It’s like dressing up the eyes,” says Geller. Shu Uemura’s Volume Fake Eyelashes are easy to put on, not to mention all-out glamorous.
Gloss is everything now—have a look at the lesbian-chic Dior ads for inspiration—and definition (i.e., lipliner) is less important. “Use lip liner as a base all over lips, then a shimmer gloss to fill in for a very wet look,” says Geller. Alternately, lipstick for evening can be really bright—pinks and oranges give the face a glow. “Add a little shimmer gloss if you want to tone down the color,” advises Geller. Valerie of Beverly Hills Gloss Pot in Angelic is a sheeny hot pink; for gloss, Bobbi Brown Essentials Lipgloss in Lilac Sugar and Lip Lacquer in Tangerine are outrageously bold and sexy.
No matter what your hairstyle, the right look this summer involves a bit more glitz than the past few seasons. “Hair is fuller, more textured and glamorous for evening,” says mega-stylist Laurent D, whose Privé salons in SoHo and L.A. are packed with celebrities like Gywneth Paltrow, Ashley Judd, Uma Thurman, and Salma Hayek.
“Long hair looks great worn very wavy, voluminous, and loose.” Think Charlie’s Angels sexy with a dash of Dynasty attitude. All you need is a volumizing spray. Laurent D Laque Shapeur, John Frieda Ready to Wear Thickening Lotion, and Rene Furterer Les Coiffants Volumizing Treatment Spray all create volume and texture without leaving hair sticky; simply flip towel-dried hair upside-down and spritz well.
For short hair, Laurent D loves a cropped, slightly textured shag with long, side-swept bangs. “This is my favorite cut right now,” he says. “Cameron Diaz and Hilary Swank look incredible.” And it works for every look, from Earl Jeans-casual to black-tie-formal.
“Sultry, swishy, set styles—like Jessica Rabbit’s—are red-hot for any length of hair,” says Paul Labrecque, owner of the Paul Labrecque Salon and Spa and personal stylist to Linda Fiorentino, Debra Winger, and Trudie Styler. “Charlize Theron’s gorgeous finger-waved, 1920s glam look at the Oscars just blew everyone away.” Hot rollers, pomade (Paul Labrecque Brilliantine Pomade is fantastic; as is Aveda Self Control Styling Stick), and careful finger-styling give hair that sleek, retro look.
Up-dos remain the ultimate in evening chic. “For a quick, classic look, I love pulling hair up into a sexy chignon—this summer it’s slightly loose and disheveled,” Laurent D says. “A few bobby pins will hold it in place.” Let several pieces of hair fall around the face and nape of the neck to keep it unstructured and easy. And think gold for accessories—shiny headbands, gold bobby pins, crystal-studded barrettes—this summer. “Gold is huge,” Labrecque agrees. “Huge.”